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Valve Clearance Adjustment

Does the engine need valve adjustment? It depends on the age, condition and make of the vehicle you drive. Due to the widespread use of roller follower valve train designs that reduce friction and hydraulic tappets (valve lifters) that help maintain optimal valve clearance, older vehicles require more frequent valve adjustments.
If necessary, valve clearance specifications and valve adjustment procedures vary widely from manufacturer to manufacturer. For example, some recent modern engine maintenance programs require a valve clearance inspection at 60,000 miles. Some Hondas require inspection at 110,000 miles. Some manufacturers advise you to inspect your valve only if it is too noisy. Others have not mentioned valve clearance at all in their maintenance schedule. Your vehicle’s maintenance schedule should be detailed in your owner’s manual, so if you are unsure, check it first.

Types of valves and how they work:

The valve resembles a spring tension inverted golf tee that is opened by a rotating camshaft lobe, either directly on the overhead camshaft motor or by a push rod acting on the rocker arm of the valve. Over head valve motor (pushrod). Prolonged use can increase the clearance between the lobe or rocker arm and the valve stem on which they act. It often causes rattling and more engine vibrations that the driver may not notice for a while as it ramps up but needs to be adjusted to fix. With exhaust valves, as the valve or valve seat wears, the clearance narrows over time, which can reduce the so-called rush clearance between the valve and the valve train component.
The intake valve opens and closes to allow the air-fuel mixture (or air only in some modern engines) to enter the cylinder, and the exhaust valve lets the exhaust gases escape. Too much or too little valve clearance can cause the engine to not “breathe” normally and run at maximum efficiency, resulting in poor performance and disturbed idle conditions. If the clearance is too large, the valve will rattle and may damage the valve, camshaft lobe, or rocker arm in the long run. If the valve clearance is too small, the valve will not close completely, generating excessive heat and losing engine power.

How to check the valve (and when to fix it)?

If the engine makes a loud rattling noise, it may be time to adjust the valve clearance, but the knocking noise can also be caused by loose rocker arms and other components. The mechanic will not know for sure without inspecting the valve. In some engines, the valve does not make noise if the clearance is too large, but valve problems can appear in other ways. Loss of energy can indicate, for example, that the valve spring is weak or broken.
To check the valve clearance, remove the valve cap (or two valve caps for V-engines) and use a thin feeler gauge as shown in the photo above, both the intake and exhaust valves and their lobes. Or you need to measure the space between the rocker arms.
(The camshaft must be in the correct position and each valve must be fully closed for each measurement.) If necessary, adjustments require the installation or replacement of shims with specialized tools, oil Not an input / maintenance item fast delivery as the replacement. Especially in engines that have 3 or 4 valves per cylinder. Plan to pay for at least a few hours of effort and inspection in the shop.

Eliminating valve rattle is one of the benefits of properly adjusting the valve, but the motor can also be smoother and more responsive. Additionally, proper adjustment can extend the life of the valve train.

Oxygen Sensor Replacement

Modern age car engine’s control system relies on inputs from different sensors to regulate the performance of the engine and its emissions and other important functions. If these sensors do not provide accurate information, the driver may experience increased fuel consumption, drivability, emissions failures, and other problems.
Most important sensors in the engine of modern cars are the oxygen sensor. O2 is also called an O2 sensor because it is the chemical formula for oxygen. Oxygen sensors monitor the amount of unburned oxygen present in the exhaust as it leaves the engine. By monitoring oxygen levels, the sensor provides a means to measure the fuel mixture. The O2 sensor tells the computer if the fuel mixture is burning rich (lack of oxygen) or lean (too much oxygen). Knowing the fuel-air ratio allows the vehicle’s engine to make the necessary changes to ensure that the vehicle operates normally.
The O2 sensor is mandatory for all cars built after 1981. Due to ODB-II regulations that apply to vehicles built after 1996, many newer vehicles have multiple O2 sensors. In fact, some cars have up to four oxygen sensors. Cars made after 1996 require a second oxygen sensor below the catalytic converter. The operating efficiency of the catalytic converter is monitored by O2 sensor.
If the sensor after the catalytic converter shows minimal changes from the initial oxygen sensor reading, it indicates that the catalytic converter is not working properly. Modern vehicles with a V-6 or V-8 engine can have up to four O2 sensors. One is placed in each cylinder bank and the other is placed after each catalytic converter. Failure of the oxygen sensor in the cylinder block or the oxygen sensor in the catalytic converter can cause serious problems with the vehicle’s engine.
Oxygen sensors play an important role in engine performance and emission control, so you may be wondering when to consider replacing them.

When is it necessary to replace the O2 sensor?

Oxygen sensors are not included in maintenance items that require regular replacement, such as oil filters and air filters, so they are usually replaced only in the event of failure.
Oxygen sensors are an important component of fuel and emissions systems because they monitor the amount of oxygen in the exhaust and send that information to the engine computer and adjust the air-fuel ratio accordingly. If the oxygen sensor fails, the engine computer will not be able to set the air-fuel ratio correctly, resulting in poor fuel economy, increased emissions, and damage to other components such as overheated catalytic converters.
The vehicles we recognize do not have warning lights that signal when the oxygen sensor fails. So, if you have a faulty oxygen sensor that needs to be replaced, you need to rely on other vital signs to warn you. The check engine light on the dash came on and increased fuel consumption.

Signs of a need for a new O2 sensor:

A check engine light on can be a sign of a more serious problem, such as a catalytic converter. Or it could be a minor problem, like a loose gas cap, and should always be investigated further. However, it may indicate a problem with the O2 sensor or another part of the exhaust or exhaust system. The repair shop should be able to read the trigger on the check engine light, and a mechanic or auto parts shop can perform this service for free.
Other signs that a new oxygen sensor is needed include altered idle conditions, spark plug misfires, power outages, shutdowns, or significant increases in fuel consumption. These symptoms can also be a sign of other problems, but the EPA states that replacing the faulty oxygen sensor can improve fuel economy by up to 40%, so is the vehicle thirsty for gas? It is one of the places to check. If the vehicle fails the emissions test, it may also be due to a malfunction of the O2 sensor.
Prices for new oxygen sensors can range from less than $ 100 on some models to more than $ 300 on other models, but do not include the effort which can vary significantly from vehicle to vehicle depending on sensor location … As a result, the total cost of replacing an oxygen sensor can vary greatly depending on the type of vehicle you drive.

Windshield Crack Repair

A windshield crack is a terrible experience. No matter how small the crack may be, you know it’s a problem and you know you need to get it fixed right away. That’s when you start thinking about the cost of having it fixed, and the time it will take, and you probably groan right out loud. But windshield crack repair can be a lot easier and quicker than you think. Sometimes, you can repair a crack in 10 minutes or less using very simple techniques.

First Steps

As soon as you get a crack, you need to get somewhere to stop its spread. A tiny crack can turn into a ruined windshield in very short order. If moisture gets into the crack or freezing weather hits the windshield, that crack will grow and expand and you will end up needing a full windshield replacement. Dirt and debris can also get into the crack, which can eliminate any possibility of DIY repair.

Apply epoxy or acrylic directly onto the crack. This will fill the crack or the chip and keep it from spreading. You will notice a dramatic improvement in the crack after you do this.

Don’t have epoxy or acrylic handy? You probably have clear nail polish. Grab it and swipe it over the crack to keep out moisture and dirt. This will serve as a band-aid until you can perform your repair.

Once you know that at least the crack will not get worse, you still don’t want to waste a lot of time in repairing it. Luckily, it isn’t difficult to move onto the next step and hopefully completely fix that windshield crack.

How Big Is It?

Large windshield cracks cannot be repaired with DIY methods. For larger cracks, you will have to go to a repair technician. Many companies specialize in auto glass. This repair may be costly, however, so it’s always worth it to do the repair yourself if possible.

As a general rule, if your crack is longer than the length of a standard U.S. dollar bill then you cannot repair this yourself.

You also cannot repair cracks that are in certain areas of the windshield. Does the crack pass through a radio antenna or something else embedded in the glass? If so, you need to consult with a technician instead of repairing this crack.

If the crack is complex and is actually many different cracks, repairing it yourself probably isn’t an option. A crack containing a large chip, or several, may be too extensive to repair as well.

Repairing the Crack

Windshield repair kits are available at any home improvement store and even on Amazon, which can send you the kit overnight. These kits are incredibly easy to use and extremely effective. Simply follow the directions to the letter. Before you do anything to the windshield, make sure it’s dry. If needed, grab a hairdryer and use it to completely dry the windshield.

If you can’t repair the crack yourself or you’re unsatisfied with your DIY job, you will have to go to a repair technician. Explore your options to make this a little more bearable financially. It’s possible that your car insurance will cover all or part of the cost of the repair. Consult with them to find out before you take the plunge and pay for the entire cost of the repair yourself.

Clear Views Ahead

Windshield visibility is an essential part of your vehicle’s safety. You don’t want to drive around with a crack of any size in the windshield because compromising your visibility is unacceptable. Whatever you do, don’t hesitate to repair that windshield.

Try a DIY approach first if you can and perform the repair yourself. If that fails, turn to the professionals so you can get that windshield fixed and get the clear, unobstructed view of the world that you absolutely have to have.

How to Flush a Rusted Radiator

An efficient radiator cools your engine by circulating coolant through its pipes. It is important to keep it free of rust or blockages and it is even suggested that you flush and refill it every six months. It is easy to learn how to flush a rusted radiator but you will find that it is a bit messy so be sure to wear old clothing, keep children and pets away from your work area, and stay away from storm drains in case of any spills. Whenever working on your radiator, it is important that the engine is cold. Below you will find step-by-step instructions on how to flush your rusted radiator.

Step 1 – Drain Coolant from System

Park your car on a flat surface, turn on your heater, and then turn off your car. Be sure to set your emergency brake and place your car in park or in gear if it is a manual transmission. Let the engine cool.

Set your bucket under the radiator plug and open it. Allow all the coolant to drain into the bucket. If your engine also has plugs in the engine block, you can remove those too so that you can drain any remaining coolant. Once the flow has stopped, replace all the plugs.

Step 2 – Fill the Radiator with Cleaner

To remove the rust and sediment left in your system, you will now need to fill the radiator with radiator cleaner. You will use the mix of radiator cleaner and water as specified by the product’s manufacturer.

Step 3 – Run the Car with the Heater on

Turn your car on and turn on the heater to a high setting, following the instructions from the product’s manufacturer for the proper length of time to let it run.

Step 4 – Drain the Cleaner

After you have run the heater for the proper amount of time, you once again need to let the engine cool. Once it has cooled, place your empty bucket under the plug again, remove plug, and as before, allow all of the cleaner to drain out of the system.

Step 5 – Fill the Radiator with Water and Repeat

You need to flush the cleaner fully out of the system again, this time using only water in the radiator. Again, run the car with the heater on, allow the car to cool, and drain all the water out of the system once again by the plug.

Step 6 – Refill the Radiator with Coolant/Antifreeze

Always consult with the owner’s manual of your car for the proper coolant to water ratio. Being sure all the plugs are in, fill the radiator with the mix, and then fill the reservoir tank to the marked level (usually found on the side of the tank) with a 50/50 mix of coolant to water.

Step 7 – Run the Engine and the Heater

Start the car and run the engine to what is roughly a normal operating temperature. Run the heater on high again. This will circulate the coolant throughout the system. Be sure to check for leaks. You can now drive your car as normal.

Step 8 – Test the System

After several days of normal use, test the concentration of the coolant with either a hydrometer or test strips and adjust as needed.

How to Clean a Motor Oil Spill

If you change your own motor oil, or if you refuel a chainsaw or lawn mower, it’s likely that you’ll eventually spill some motor oil and need to clean it up. Because a single quart of motor oil can pollute 250,000 gallons of drinking water, you should never ignore an oil spill.

While you can lift old stains, up to 30 days, with solvents, it’s dangerous to do so. However, for fresh spills, you can get the majority of the oil up if you act quickly and follow these directions.

Step 1 – Soak up Fresh Oil

If the oil spill is fresh, throw down as much cleanup compound as it takes to absorb the oil. If you don’t have cleanup compound, use paper towels, replacing them as soon as the towels are soaked with oil.

Then, go to the nearest auto-parts store and buy a 5-pound bucket of cleanup compound. Spread the compound on and around the spill. Let it sit according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Use a Push Broom

Using a push broom and dustpan, sweep up the compound as it begins to absorb the oil. Each time you sweep up the used compound, add more compound and allow it to sit and absorb more of the oil. Do not use kitty litter unless it is made of newspaper, wood chips, or other absorbent material. While litter made from these materials will soak up oil, you should still follow up with a cleanup compound.

Step 2 – Emulsify the Oil

Once you have the bulk of the oil absorbed and cleaned up, you’ll need to emulsify the remaining oil, so that it doesn’t solidify and become impossible to remove. Fortunately, motor oil has a lot in common with other oils. Thus, if you add soap and warm water to the oil, you emulsify it, or keep it from turning into a solid.

Spray With Dish-Washing Detergent

To emulsify the oil, spray the remaining spot with dish-washing detergent and warm water.

Scrub the Spot

Use a broom or bristle brush, not wire, to scrub the oil spot to emulsify it. Then, use more compound to absorb the resulting liquid.

Step 3 – Use Solvents

Do not use solvents on asphalt. If your motor oil spill is on concrete, however, you can use solvents, such as kerosene, paint thinner, or other hydrocarbon-based solvents. However, this step should only be taken if there is any remaining oil that won’t come up with other methods.

Add small amounts of the solvent and allow it to soak into the stain. Rub lightly to absorb the dissolved stain. Do not throw away the rags or towels used to clean up the oil, but burn them in an open oil drum. They will spontaneously combust if thrown in the trash.

Warning: If you must use solvents, do so with extreme caution, as these materials are highly flammable. Wear gloves, and properly rid of rags or towels used to clean the oil up by taking precautions and burning them in an open oil drum.

How To Jump Start A Car

If you’re lucky (and take proper care of your car), you could go years without having to jumpstart a vehicle. If you’re ever in the position of needing to jump your own car, you’ll be happy you know how to do it.

Not knowing could how could leave you stranded for hours. Don’t let this critical skill be forgotten.

1. Park

Park the cars close to one another, without touching. Make sure both vehicles are completely off.

2. Prep

Pop the hoods, and locate the batteries. Make sure the jumper cables are unwound and untangled.

3. Attach

Hook the red (+) clamp to the positive terminal of the dead battery. Then, attach the red (+) clamp to the positive terminal of the working battery. Clamp the black (-) to the negative terminal of the working battery. Finally, attach the remaining black (-) to an unpainted metal surface of the dead car.

4. Start ‘er up

Start the working car. Start the dead car.

5. Remove

Remove the cables in the reverse order you attached them.

6. Let ‘er run

Let the revived car engine run for several minutes at least or drive for at least 15 minutes if possible.
If the car won’t start, check your connections and try again.

How to Change a Tire in 10 easy steps

A flat tire typically shows up unexpectedly and catapults itself onto the top of your priority list. A flat tire can happen to anyone at any time. It doesn’t matter if you were already running late or if you’re wearing a cocktail dress. Regardless of your situation, the basic mechanics of changing a tire are the same whether you’re working with a car, truck, van, or SUV. Below, I’ve broken down how to change a tire in 10 simple steps.

1. FIND A SAFE PLACE TO PULL OVER

The ground should be solid and level to keep your car from rolling. If you’re on the side of the road, pull over as far possible. Avoid stopping near any bends in the road, as this reduces visibility for both you and other drivers. If you’re in a dark or unsafe area, carefully drive to a better spot.

2. USE YOUR HAZARD LIGHTS AND PARKING BRAKE

Use your hazard lights and parking brake to keep yourself and your vehicle safe by increasing your visibility and decreasing the vehicle’s ability to roll.

3. CHECK FOR MATERIALS

At the bare minimum, you’ll need a jack, wrench, and a spare tire. These three items should always be in your vehicle just in case a flat tire occurs. Additional items that can make tire changing a little easier include:

– Flashlight
– Gloves
– Mat for kneeling
– Rain poncho
– Tire gauge
– Your vehicle’s owner’s manual

4. LOOSEN THE LUG NUTS

If your vehicle has a wheel cover (also known as a hubcap), pry it off. Then, secure the wrench onto a lug nut, and turn it counterclockwise to loosen it. Repeat this process with each lug nut, making sure each one is loose enough to turn by hand.

5. LIFT YOUR VEHICLE OFF THE GROUND

Place the jack under the metal portion of your vehicle’s frame. Do not place the jack where it will have contact with any plastic molding. The best jack placement differs depending on the vehicle. Consulting your owner’s manual is the best way to learn proper jack placement. Once properly placed, use the jack to raise the tire you’re changing off of the ground. Ensure the jack stays perpendicular to the ground at all times.

6. REMOVE THE LUG NUTS AND THE TIRE

Turn the lug nuts counterclockwise until they are all very loose. Next, remove them completely. Keep the lug nuts all together in a safe spot, as you’ll need them to secure the replacement tire. With the lug nuts removed, there is nothing keeping your tire attached to the vehicle. Securely grip your tire and pull it directly toward your body.

7. PLACE THE SPARE TIRE ON THE CAR

Line up the holes in the spare with the lug nut posts and place the spare on the wheelbase. Push the spare as far onto the wheelbase as possible.

8. REPLACE THE LUG NUTS

Put the lug nuts on so the spare tire stays put. Don’t tighten them all the way just yet. It’s very important to tighten your lug nuts in a way that keeps the tire even.

9. LOWER YOUR VEHICLE AND BEGIN TIGHTENING

Using the jack, slowly lower your vehicle until your spare tire starts touching the ground. This holds the tire in place as you begin tightening the lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts in increments, alternating every-other nut. For example, if you assign a number to each lug nut, tighten in this order: 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, and repeat. This way you’ll keep the tire on straight.

10. LOWER YOUR VEHICLE COMPLETELY AND FINISH TIGHTENING

Once the lug nuts feel equally tight, completely lower your vehicle to the ground. Once grounded, you may be able to tighten the lug nuts a little bit further. Continue your tightening in the same incremental order until they no longer budge.

EXTRA TIPS FOR HOW TO CHANGE A TIRE

Finish up by putting your old tire in the trunk and cleaning up any tools you used. Depending on what’s wrong with it, your old tire might be salvageable. Bring it to a trusted mechanic who can test and possibly repair it. Otherwise, you’ll need to invest in a new spare, which should be done immediately. It’s never a good idea to operate a vehicle without a spare tire; make sure to pre-check your spare tire and parts to make sure it is ready to use in case of an emergency.

How To Do An Oil Change At Home

Your Vehicle is a complex machine built for a simple purpose, moving from one point to another. It’s hard to believe that an engine with countless moving parts, different fluids, and a flammable fuel source goes to work to move you. Just like it’s difficult to keep a clear track of the various parts under your car’s hood, it can also be difficult to keep track of when and how to maintain those various parts. One of the simplest and, arguably, most important auto services you can have performed on your ride is the car oil change. Done anywhere from every 3,000 to 10,000 miles (depending on the oil you use), this important auto service ensures that the moving parts in your engine compartment are well lubricated and operating without a hitch.

This important auto service is also one that’s fairly user-friendly and can be done by anyone, with a little know-how. At Dynasty Boyz Auto Club, we’re here to show you how you can do your own car oil change like a pro!

Doing an Oil Change Like a Pro


The undercarriage and engine compartment of your vehicle can look pretty intimidating. So, here are a few steps to get you started:

Familiarize Yourself with Your Ride

For this, you need to look past the noise of your engine and look for what you need. To get a car oil change done, you need to look for very specific parts like the oil cap (located on the top of the engine block), the dipstick (a yellow or orange ring that sits closer to you in the engine compartment), the oil pan (under the vehicle), and the drain plug (on the pan body). Take your time finding these parts and refer to a reliable Clermont Toyota automotive authority if you have questions or need help.

Check Your Car’s Oil

Believe it or not, just because your vehicle’s oil light came on, you might not need to have a car oil change done just yet. You can find out by using your dipstick and a white towel (paper or fabric). First, locate the dipstick and pull it out of its housing (have the towel ready). Put the metal stick in the towel and wipe the oil off. Check the color. Is it light brown? Is there any debris in it? Depending on your findings and answer, determine if you actually need to change the oil in your car.

Sure You Have the Right Supplies

Every car has different needs regarding the type and amount of fluids they need to function. Before you dive into your car oil change, find out which oil your car needs and how much. It also helps to know which type of filter your car needs as you might wind up changing that in conjunction with your oil. You can find this information through reputable online sources and your Auto Zone.

Start Your Oil Change

These next parts can be tricky so make sure to perform them in the correct.

– First, lift up your car using 1 – 2 vehicle jacks (we recommend 2).
– Find the oil pan within your undercarriage. It’s a rectangular object located toward the front of your vehicle’s underbody.
– Place a drain pan underneath the Clermont oil pan and start loosening the drain plug.
Make sure to do this after your vehicle has been off for some time!
– Release the drain plug and do so quickly to avoid getting too much oil splash on your hands and arms.
– If you need to remove the oil filter, do so at this time.
– After all the oil has drained, replace the drain plug and filter.
– Then, locate the oil cap on top of the engine and unscrew it.
– Use a good funnel and pour the oil into the engine. Make sure you fill it with the correct amount of oil.
– Start your car and check your dipstick to make sure there’s oil in your engine and that’s it!

Easy peasy! After you’ve finished your car oil change, make sure to dispose of the old oil properly along with the filter.

If you need help with your DIY car oil change or you’d like one of our auto service experts to help you out, swing by Dynasty Boyz Auto Club today! You can find us at 10 Waverly Pl Staten Island NY 10304 five days a week!

How To Wax Your Car Like a Pro!

This article will cover everything you need to know about waxing your car to achieve an amazing shine and also the protection that goes with it!


If you need information about the best car wax to use — based on the needs of both you and your automobile — see our Car Wax Buyer’s Guide.


It used to be that you’d simply wash and dry your car, then pull out a can of Simonize (or other favorite cleaner/wax) to restore shine and wax protection

Things are different now! Today there are hundreds upon hundreds of car wax products, but the choices all boil down to:

  • Liquid Wax
  • Paste Wax
  • Spray Wax
  • Wipe-on, Walk Away Clear Sealant

The car wax you choose is really a lifestyle choice. As funny as that sounds, it’s true!

For car enthusiasts, the pursuit of car appearance perfection will lead them to a multi-step, all-day, car pampering process. This may seem extreme for some but it’s pure enjoyment for car lovers.

At the other end of the spectrum are folks interested in vehicle care, but their time is precious. These people need a fast and easy solution.

Here’s the good news:

Many car wax products have evolved to the point where nearly everyone will be satisfied with the results. And it’s the same process for both fanatics and those interested in a quick wax job!

Start With a Squeaky Clean Finish

The reason Simonize and Turtle Wax paste waxes were so popular a few decades ago is because they were a single-step paint cleaner and car wax in one (e.g., “cleaner/wax”).

Today we have more choices but, no matter what, your car’s paint must be clean before waxing.


Warning: Never wax over the dirt! Use a quality clay bar to safely remove bonded contamination.


Clay bar detailing is a quick and easy process of removing bonded dirt and other contamination with a simple bar of detailing clay.

Use it after washing your car to remove all the loose dirt. The result is a squeaky clean paint finish that’s as smooth as glass.

For complete instructions, see our complete Clay Bar Detailing guide.

Cleaner/Wax vs. Clay Bar + Non-Cleaner Wax

Modern clearcoat paint finishes (most cars made since the year 2000 have a clearcoat finish) are much different than traditional paint systems without a clearcoat.

The truth is they are thinner.

Why is that?

To conserve weight (and our environment) and reduce cost. As a result, the use of abrasive cleaners and polishes for regular care is not advisable.

The safe alternative to a cleaner wax is detailing clay followed by a high quality non-cleaner wax (pure wax).

FYI: You can find out whether you have a cleaner/wax or a pure wax by simply reading the label. If the product claims to “clean” or “polish” then it is a cleaner/wax.

Polish to Remove Defects… Before You Wax!

The time to use an abrasive on your vehicle’s paint is when you have fine defects that need to be removed. Many people mistakenly believe that waxing will fix minor blemishes.

It won’t!

Waxing may temporarily cover-up some blemishes, but it will not make them go away.

By blemishes I’m talking about fine scratches, swirl marks, water spot etching and stains or burns from bird dropping. To solve these problems you must use an abrasive car polish.

Make no mistake: If your car’s paint needs reconditioning, you must have it done before applying wax.

Applying Automotive Spray Wax

Automotive spray waxes are the easiest paint protection products to apply.

A few years ago spray wax products were a joke, but today they rival some of the best liquid and past wax products.

What changed? In a word, polymers!

Polymer coating technology is getting so good that a product like Meguiar’s Ultimate Quik Wax offers the same level of protection as the original formula Meguiar’s NXT Generation Tech Wax that hit the market a few years ago.

Best of all, you can apply best-of-breed spray wax products in a matter of minutes. Many of them can be used in direct sunlight, although the most amazing results are always achieved in the shade.

To apply a spray wax thoroughly wash and dry your car.

With a microfiber buffing towel in one hand and your spray wax in the other, spray and wipe a small area at a time. Distribute evenly, then flip the towel to a dry side for a final buff.

It’s that easy!

NOTE: For perfect results, always give a final wipe with a clean, dry microfiber buffing towel that hasn’t been used to distribute product.

Applying Liquid And Paste Waxes

Many years ago paste waxes were preferred because they offered great results. Nowadays, manufactures offer liquid and paste versions of the same car wax formula.

So, what’s the difference?

It comes down to your personal preference and method of application. Wax is easier to apply by hand, whereas a liquid wax is necessary for machine application.

For both liquid and paste waxes, a basic rule applies: less is better. With modern polymer waxes, it’s not necessary to slather on a heavy coating.

Take it from me, a thin coat dries faster and wipes off easier.

For all liquid and paste wax products, follow these basic instructions:

  • Work in a shaded area — out of direct sunlight.
  • Use the applicator that is provided by the manufacture or one that they recommend. If the manufacturer does not make a recommendation, use a foam applicator pad to apply your wax.
  • Work on one area at a time covering 2 to 4 square feet. Some products may allow you to coat the entire car before buffing off. However, most do not.
  • Follow the wax manufacturer’s instructions on whether or not to allow the wax to dry (haze) before buffing.
  • Use a small amount of wax at a time, and rub it in well. Use too much wax and you’re wasting the product and your time.
  • Switch to a clean wipe towel if the wax residue does not buff off easily.
  • Apply your wax in a back-and-forth motion, not in circles. You need to replace your applicator or towels if you are creating swirls.

After waxing, your car’s paint should feel slick and smooth, and be free of streaks and smudges.

What do you do if, after all this work, you still have streaks and areas that do not want to buff out perfectly?

There are several tricks, but the easiest is to park your car in the sun for 10 to 15 minutes. Let it get warm, but not hot, and then take it back inside the garage.

Next, use your favorite detail spray a fresh buffing towel to wipe down the affected areas. The warmth of the sun softens the wax, allowing it to buff out to a clear, high gloss.

If you are using an enthusiast sealant system, use the quick detailer made for the system.

Show Car Wax Tricks

Detailers who prepare show cars often tend to layer a carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax. The synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth and a wet-looking appearance.

A combination that works well is an initial coating of Klasse All-In-One Car Polishfollowed by one or more coats of Carnauba Wax by P21S. And with superior coating capabilities, multiple coats of the Optimum Opti-Seal product creates a dazzling finish.

When layering products for show, apply and buff the first coat of wax as you would normally. Be sure to allow it to cure for 12 to 24 hours before applying a second coat.

Please Note: The first coat must have time to cure. If the wax does not cure (harden), the second coat will not improve your car’s appearance or protection.

You will absolutely see noticeable improvement in depth, richness of color and gloss with properly applied coats of wax.

Applying a Clear Paint Sealant

The new breed of clear sealants have a completely new method of application. You literally wipe the clear sealant on, then walk away and allow it to dry.

I highly recommend Wolfgang Deep Gloss as well as soft foam applicator pads for applying an even coating.

When the paint sealant finishes drying it will be as gloss as it is going to be without buffing or wiping, and the surface has the best protection possible.

But wait!

Your car must be clean and dry before applying a sealant. Clear seal products are very hydrophobic, so they usually do not mix with water at all.

Clear sealants can be applied to paint, glass, chrome and plastic trim. The most important thing is to apply an even coating and then leave it alone.

Be patient.

Do not wipe after application. Simply allow the sealant to dry (20-30 minutes).

Do this right and it can last up to a year, though I usually apply paint sealant twice yearly for solid protection.

Car Wax Summary

Regular waxing is necessary to protect car paint from the elements.

In addition to sealing and protecting, both waxes and sealants also improve the appearance of freshly washed and polished paint.

Follow the advice here and it’s not difficult!

Use the right products and you can successfully layer waxes and sealants to make your car’s paint look deeper and almost liquid.

Once your car is waxed, it’s time to move on to Car Interior Cleaning!

Maintaining Disc Brakes

Brake service is one of the most common repairs our Technicians perform daily. While brake service or replacement is inevitable, there are many ways to maintain your brakes and prolong a trip to the mechanic. Proper brake maintenance is easy–if you know what to look and listen for.

Let’s take a look at how to make your brakes last longer, how to recognize when you need maintenance and the different types of brake services your Master Mechanic may perform.

How Do Disc Brakes Work?

Before we get into proper brake maintenance, it’s important to understand the different parts we’ll be talking about. Most drivers are only familiar with the part they interact with when braking: the pedal. In reality, your vehicle’s brakes are comprised of many components that work together to stop your car at a moment’s notice. Within a braking system, we have the pedal, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, pistons, pads, rotors, metal tubes, and flexible hoses that move essential liquids. Many modern cars also have sensors that alert drivers of worn brakes or work with ABS systems.  

When you press the pedal, you should immediately feel the brakes engage. As you press down, hydraulic fluid in the brake lines pressurizes, which engages the pistons and pushes the pads onto the rotor. Pressing the brake pedal harder creates more pressure within the brake lines and causes the pistons to push the pads against the rotor more firmly. As you remove your foot from the pedal, the hydraulic fluid depressurizes, and the pads retract a few millimetres into the callipers.

Disc Brake Care

Understandably, most drivers don’t feel comfortable performing brake repairs or replacements themselves. At Master Mechanic, we don’t advise you try to do this work yourself unless you have the experience. Many modern cars have sensors that need to be recalibrated by a mechanic to ensure they continue to work properly after service. That said, there are many things you can do to prolong the life of your brakes and save money on maintenance.

Don’t Slam on the Brakes!

Brakes are there to help you drive safely. This includes avoiding a sudden collision, and sometimes, sudden braking is unavoidable. Whenever possible, you should brake lightly and come to a rolling stop. If you continuously brake suddenly, you may risk warping your brake discs. Not only does this increase the wear on other parts, it also lowers the driving performance and comfort of your car.

The Importance of Brake Fluid

As we explained above, your brake fluid plays a BIG part in bringing your car to a halt. Brake fluid doesn’t last forever and does need to be replaced. As you drive, fluid can absorb water from the air, and gunk can build up. Some car manufacturers include this service in your scheduled maintenance, while others specify the specific mileage. It’s important to check your owner’s manual, but every other year is a good rule of thumb.

When dealing with an essential safety system like your brakes, you may be tempted to reach for premium brake fluid to make them perform better. For most drivers, keeping clean fluid is far more important than opting for a more premium variety. Specialty brake fluids are designed for more severe conditions or track driving and generally won’t benefit an ordinary driver much.

Listen to Your Brakes

When your brakes aren’t happy (and need service), they’ll typically tell you. Depending on the issue, you may notice a hissing or squealing when you press the brake pedal. A sharp hiss when braking usually means you’re running low on brake fluid. Be sure to monitor the response time of your brakes and drive very carefully until you have your brake fluid replaced. We advise doing this ASAP!

The infamous brake squealing is something almost every driver is familiar with. We know your brake pads are responsible for stopping your vehicle by making contact with the rotor. Overtime, this contact wears down your brake pads and they’ll need to be replaced. It is recommended to change your brake pads when the friction material reaches its minimum thickness of around 3 mm. This is also when you’ll begin to hear the familiar squealing, which is simply a ‘warning sound’ designed to tell you it’s time for a replacement. As your pads wear, a metal tab is exposed and begins to rub slightly against the rotor to alert drivers.  

You’ll want to visit your local Mechanic to have your pads replaced before your calipers start to make contact with the rotors. After that, further driving could quickly damage the brake discs or drums and lead to costly repairs.

Common Questions About Disc Brake Maintenance

Service or replace? If your car’s brake pads are close to their minimum thickness or are damaged, it is likely cheaper to replace them. When you visit your local Mechanic, we’ll explain how long your brakes will last if you service them, the price difference, and any safety risks to help you make the best decision.

How long do brakes last? On average, disc brakes last for 50,000-80,000 kilometers before they need to be replaced.

How much is brake service? Contact your local Dynasty Mechanic to discuss costs for your make and model. If your brake discs or drums are rusted, warped, or worn unevenly, your Master Mechanic may suggest having them machined. We’ll always discuss any associated costs with you before performing any services.

Do I have to service all my brakes at once? It’s best practice to inspect all your brakes at the same time to ensure no issues go unnoticed. To ensure even wear as you drive, brakes on the same axle should always be serviced at the same time. Uneven wear could cause steering vibration and pulsating when you brake. 

Proper brake maintenance helps keep you (and everyone else) safe on the road. IT also saves you money on repairs in the long run. If you suspect there’s an issue with your brakes, or just need scheduled maintenance performed, don’t wait! Contact your local Dynasty Mechanic today–we’re always happy to see you stop by!

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