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How to restore your headlights shine?

Headlights of a car are an essential part of car body in many perspectives. It is very important for car’s look as well as for driving at night. If your car’s headlights look dusty and yellowish in color, there is no need to replace them with new one immediately. The clean headlights not only make the vehicle look like new, but also clearly illuminate the road, allowing for safe and unobstructed driving. Haze, fog, stain, whatever you want to call it, there is an easy way to get rid of the rust on that plastic that will cloud your car’s headlights after years and miles of driving.
There are many headlight repairs kits for sale at auto parts and home improvement stores. In this story, we tested two different kits. Maquila’s $ 25 kit and $ 10 Turtle Wax kit (Cars.com purchased both sets of headlights separately and did not contact representatives of either company.) Both sets include clarifying cleaning compounds, wet sanding pads, and protective sealant solutions. What can I get for $ 15 or more? The more advanced Maguire kit includes a clean microfiber detailing cloth, an ergonomic grip for wet sanding pads, and a buffing ball to attach to the drill. The most affordable Turtle Wax kit comes with two solutions and a set of numbered sanding pads.
In this article you know basic way to restore polish of your headlight in two ways.

Idea 1:

Detach headlights from your car body and wash them with the help of water and washing powder. Then place them in sunlight to dry for some time. After headlights got dry you have to take a number 0 emery paper. Note (Please confirm it that it is a 0 number emery paper used for polishing cars paints.) Dip it in water and wait for 30 minutes after this take a dry cloth (Good if it is of a toweling material) and rub it on the headlight after this take emery paper and start rubbing headlight gently with emery paper. Keep emery paper dipping in water frequently.
You clearly see that yellowish color water is visible after completing rubbing dry the headlight and with polishing machine polish it. After polishing take a dry cloth and rub it on headlight here your headlight shine come back.

Idea 2:

Step 1. Clean the headlight area with soap and water to remove dirt and debris from the surface level. Household glass cleaners or Windex can do that trick too. Make sure the headlights are completely dry before proceeding to step 2.
Step 2. When dry, glue around the area near the headlights (the painted panel on the car body that touches the headlights). This is an important precaution to avoid sanding damage to the car paint during the repair process.
Some headlight repair kits, like the turtle wax we use, require a coat of clear compound to be applied to the headlight assembly before wet sanding.
Other headlight repair kits may instruct you to skip the required sanding in steps 3-5 and start polishing.
Step 3. Both headlight repair kits provided different types of grit or strength sandpaper. Use a spray bottle filled with water or the supplied lubricating fluid to illuminate the headlights and wet the minimum amount of sandpaper.
Step 4. Apply pressure to rub a minimum amount (1,000 or 1) of sandpaper over the entire surface of the headlights, moving left and right, being careful not to touch other parts of the bodywork. You should create a complete “glass” appearance that covers the entire headlight assembly. Always keep the piece of sandpaper and the headlight assembly wet.
Step 5. Go to the next highest grit number (2000 or 2) after the sandpaper and rub the headlights in the opposite up and down motion. Keep the sandpaper and headlamp assembly damp unless instructed otherwise.
The Turtle Wax Kit (shown above) comes with 2 additional levels of sandpaper with a finer grit for more sanding. These little pads took more effort to use, but they were able to tackle the curved areas of the headlights better than the Maguire kit (shown below).

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Steps 3-5 will take 10 to 30 minutes, depending on how cloudy the headlights are. Be patient and be careful not to accidentally touch the applicator with other parts of the car. Scratches and paint damage can occur.
Step 6. Dry the headlight with a detailing cloth or paper towel.
Step 7. Lightly tap the included polishing solution or stick it onto an applicator pad or polishing ball (like the one included in the Maguire kit above). Use an applicator pad or buffing ball to continuously flick back and forth on the headlights to remove polish from wet sand. You should be able to see the difference in the transparency of the vehicle’s headlights almost immediately. Once again, the buffing ball did not touch the curved surface of the headlights or the turtle wax kit.
Step 8. Dry the headlight again with a detailing cloth or paper towel.
Step 9. When you are satisfied with the improved appearance of the headlights, pour a small amount of sealer protector onto another applicator pad or towel, or in the case of a turtle wax kit (pictured above), a small amount pre-applied protective agent Towel – and rub it on the headlights.
Step 10. Peel off the tape around the headlights and you are done. If possible, let the sealant dry for a few hours and seal everything to ensure a new protective covering.

How to Repair Power Steering Fluid Leaks

The power steering assembly in your car transfers the hydraulic power from the steering fluid to each of the wheels so your car will be more responsive and easier to direct when driving. After a few years of use, you may notice the steering is not as good as it was. This may be a result of fluid leaks, often in the hoses or as a result of a bad steering rack. When this happens, there is a lot you can do to fix the problem yourself.

Step 1 – Use Some Brake Fluid for a Temporary Fix

Many people who have had some leaks with the rack and pinion problems will put some brake fluid into the power steering reservoir. This will not replace the power steering fluid, but will add it into the mix. This has been successful as a short term fix in order to get you home or to a repair center.

Step 2 – Park Car on Ramp

To get at the rack and pinion, you will need to crawl under the vehicle. A pair of heavy duty car ramps are a good option for safely lifting your car enough to work under it. Place the ramps on a flat surface and carefully drive the front wheels of your vehicle onto them. When you reach the top, put the car in park and turn off the engine. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels and apply the emergency break so it does not accidentally roll while you’re working.

Step 3 – Clean Hoses

Take some time to clean the hose from the rack and pinion of any grease, dirt, and fluids. This will help you better determine where the leak is coming from. Also, look at the overall condition of the hoses while you are cleaning them. You may find that they are dry and brittle, in which case they will need to be replaced.

Step 4 – Locate the Leak

Fill your power steering reservoir only slightly with fluid, briefly turn your vehicle back on, and turn your steering wheel back and forth for a few minutes. Then, turn the car off again and carefully inspect your power steering hoses and rack. Since you just cleaned your hoses, any new fluid on them should tell you the source of the leak.

Step 5 – Drain Power Steering Fluid

Place a drip pan underneath the power steering unit, remove the bottom bolt, and drain out the fluid completely. You will always want fresh fluid in the system after a repair. Make sure you dispose of the old fluid properly as well.

Step 6 – Replace Hoses

The power steering hoses that are connected to the rack and pinion are high pressure hoses that will be bolted into place, so you will need to remove them with a line wrench or a socket wrench. Since they need to be on very tight, you might have trouble getting them off. In this case, you can use a lubricant to help. Loosen the top bolt on the hose first before removing the bolt down by the steering rack. Then, fit your new power steering hose in place starting at the bottom and moving to the top. Get the bolts nice and tight again so you don’t have to worry about problems later.

Step 7 – Replace Gaskets

There are a few gaskets on the rack and pinion assembly that may need to be replaced if they are dried out and worn. Simply remove the old ones and make sure you buy suitable replacements. Then, refit them in the same spot and secure them.

Step 8 – Replace Rack and Pinion

Some leaks are caused because the rack and pinion is failing. When this happens you can use some Leak Stop to seal up some of the cracked areas, but you will need to replace the rack and pinion to stop the leaks entirely.

Start by securing your steering wheel so it doesn’t move when the rack is removed. Then, take off both of your front wheels to give yourself easier access to the steering rack.

Unfasten and remove the tie rod from the vehicle; a new steering rack will not come with one, so you will have to attach it to the existing tie rods before you can finish the installation. Unscrew the rack assembly from the tie rod next, and then repeat the process on the other side of the car.

Next, remove the stabilizer bolts from the torsion bar and unbolt it from the frame. Slide this out of the way some so you can get to the bolts that actually hold the rack in place. You’ll need to remove the power steering lines from the rack as well before you finally unscrew the pinch bolt on the steering column shaft so the whole assembly slides off.

Slide the new rack into this groove and begin reversing the whole process to secure it in place. Make sure your tie rod is aligned identically on either side to what it was on the old assembly. You should still take your vehicle into a shop after this repair for a realignment, however, just to be sure you’re set.

Step 9 – Refill the Power Steering Fluid

Now that your leak has hopefully been fixed with new hoses, new gaskets, and a new steering rack, it’s time to refill your reservoir with fluid.

Windshield Crack Repair

A windshield crack is a terrible experience. No matter how small the crack may be, you know it’s a problem and you know you need to get it fixed right away. That’s when you start thinking about the cost of having it fixed, and the time it will take, and you probably groan right out loud. But windshield crack repair can be a lot easier and quicker than you think. Sometimes, you can repair a crack in 10 minutes or less using very simple techniques.

First Steps

As soon as you get a crack, you need to get somewhere to stop its spread. A tiny crack can turn into a ruined windshield in very short order. If moisture gets into the crack or freezing weather hits the windshield, that crack will grow and expand and you will end up needing a full windshield replacement. Dirt and debris can also get into the crack, which can eliminate any possibility of DIY repair.

Apply epoxy or acrylic directly onto the crack. This will fill the crack or the chip and keep it from spreading. You will notice a dramatic improvement in the crack after you do this.

Don’t have epoxy or acrylic handy? You probably have clear nail polish. Grab it and swipe it over the crack to keep out moisture and dirt. This will serve as a band-aid until you can perform your repair.

Once you know that at least the crack will not get worse, you still don’t want to waste a lot of time in repairing it. Luckily, it isn’t difficult to move onto the next step and hopefully completely fix that windshield crack.

How Big Is It?

Large windshield cracks cannot be repaired with DIY methods. For larger cracks, you will have to go to a repair technician. Many companies specialize in auto glass. This repair may be costly, however, so it’s always worth it to do the repair yourself if possible.

As a general rule, if your crack is longer than the length of a standard U.S. dollar bill then you cannot repair this yourself.

You also cannot repair cracks that are in certain areas of the windshield. Does the crack pass through a radio antenna or something else embedded in the glass? If so, you need to consult with a technician instead of repairing this crack.

If the crack is complex and is actually many different cracks, repairing it yourself probably isn’t an option. A crack containing a large chip, or several, may be too extensive to repair as well.

Repairing the Crack

Windshield repair kits are available at any home improvement store and even on Amazon, which can send you the kit overnight. These kits are incredibly easy to use and extremely effective. Simply follow the directions to the letter. Before you do anything to the windshield, make sure it’s dry. If needed, grab a hairdryer and use it to completely dry the windshield.

If you can’t repair the crack yourself or you’re unsatisfied with your DIY job, you will have to go to a repair technician. Explore your options to make this a little more bearable financially. It’s possible that your car insurance will cover all or part of the cost of the repair. Consult with them to find out before you take the plunge and pay for the entire cost of the repair yourself.

Clear Views Ahead

Windshield visibility is an essential part of your vehicle’s safety. You don’t want to drive around with a crack of any size in the windshield because compromising your visibility is unacceptable. Whatever you do, don’t hesitate to repair that windshield.

Try a DIY approach first if you can and perform the repair yourself. If that fails, turn to the professionals so you can get that windshield fixed and get the clear, unobstructed view of the world that you absolutely have to have.

How to Flush a Rusted Radiator

An efficient radiator cools your engine by circulating coolant through its pipes. It is important to keep it free of rust or blockages and it is even suggested that you flush and refill it every six months. It is easy to learn how to flush a rusted radiator but you will find that it is a bit messy so be sure to wear old clothing, keep children and pets away from your work area, and stay away from storm drains in case of any spills. Whenever working on your radiator, it is important that the engine is cold. Below you will find step-by-step instructions on how to flush your rusted radiator.

Step 1 – Drain Coolant from System

Park your car on a flat surface, turn on your heater, and then turn off your car. Be sure to set your emergency brake and place your car in park or in gear if it is a manual transmission. Let the engine cool.

Set your bucket under the radiator plug and open it. Allow all the coolant to drain into the bucket. If your engine also has plugs in the engine block, you can remove those too so that you can drain any remaining coolant. Once the flow has stopped, replace all the plugs.

Step 2 – Fill the Radiator with Cleaner

To remove the rust and sediment left in your system, you will now need to fill the radiator with radiator cleaner. You will use the mix of radiator cleaner and water as specified by the product’s manufacturer.

Step 3 – Run the Car with the Heater on

Turn your car on and turn on the heater to a high setting, following the instructions from the product’s manufacturer for the proper length of time to let it run.

Step 4 – Drain the Cleaner

After you have run the heater for the proper amount of time, you once again need to let the engine cool. Once it has cooled, place your empty bucket under the plug again, remove plug, and as before, allow all of the cleaner to drain out of the system.

Step 5 – Fill the Radiator with Water and Repeat

You need to flush the cleaner fully out of the system again, this time using only water in the radiator. Again, run the car with the heater on, allow the car to cool, and drain all the water out of the system once again by the plug.

Step 6 – Refill the Radiator with Coolant/Antifreeze

Always consult with the owner’s manual of your car for the proper coolant to water ratio. Being sure all the plugs are in, fill the radiator with the mix, and then fill the reservoir tank to the marked level (usually found on the side of the tank) with a 50/50 mix of coolant to water.

Step 7 – Run the Engine and the Heater

Start the car and run the engine to what is roughly a normal operating temperature. Run the heater on high again. This will circulate the coolant throughout the system. Be sure to check for leaks. You can now drive your car as normal.

Step 8 – Test the System

After several days of normal use, test the concentration of the coolant with either a hydrometer or test strips and adjust as needed.

How to Winterize Your Vehicle in 8 Steps

Whether your car is old or new, wintertime is filled with automobile challenges. Because of freezing temperatures, snow, ice, and rain, winterizing your car can help you stay one step ahead of whatever winter throws your way. The following is a simple guide that will better prepare your vehicle for the harsh realities of winter.

1. Fluid Levels

There are three fluid levels you should check during winter: coolant, oil, and wiper fluid. Having the correct amount of anti-freeze in the radiator will prevent the coolant from freezing in low temperatures. It’s a good idea to get a fresh oil change before winter hits and switch to a thinner mixture in areas where the temperature gets below freezing. Finally, make sure your wiper fluid is able to withstand the cold. Purchase a freeze-resistant variety to ensure your windshield is kept clean in wintry conditions.

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2. Belts

While you are in the engine bay, it never hurts to look over belts and hoses. Low temperatures can loosen belts and hoses, making your engine work harder. When inspecting belts, look for cracks and loose fits. Ensure that all your hoses are connected tightly and not missing any clamps. Remember, a broken belt during the winter can strand you on the roadside, so it’s always a good idea to replace them before they fail.

3. Wiper Blades

Being able to see the road clearly is important while driving in wintry conditions. Unfortunately, ice, snow, rain, and even salt on the roads can drastically reduce visibility. To combat bad visibility, ensure your wiper blades are in working condition. If your blades are over a year old, they likely need replacing. When replacing wiper blades, choose ones that are specially manufactured for winter weather.

4. Tire Tread

Worn tires and low air pressure present a number of different challenges on icy or wet roads because they dangerously reduce traction. Double-check your vehicle’s manual for the correct PSI. You’ll need a reliable tire gauge to check the pressure, and after doing so, inflate to the recommended amount. Consider investing in snow tires in locations with heavy snow accumulation. Even if your area doesn’t get a lot of snow, you should replace tires whenever the tread gets overly worn.

5. Battery Inspection

The engine isn’t the only part of your car that has difficulty starting in cold conditions. The capacity of your battery is also negatively affected by low temperatures. To remedy this, inspect your battery and make sure the cables and terminals are clean and free of grime. Inspect the cables for breaks and make sure they are connected securely to the positive and negative terminals. Check the fluid level in the battery and refill with distilled water if the fluid is low. As a safety measure, you should always shut off the engine while working around the battery.

6. Four-Wheel Drive

Having four-wheel drive in the winter is great, but only if it works correctly. Four-wheel drive won’t make your vehicle invincible in ice and snow, but it will give your vehicle better traction. If you haven’t used your four-wheel drive in a while, take it down to your local mechanic for a thorough inspection. The inspection won’t cost you a lot of money, but it will give you peace of mind knowing that you have a working four-wheel drive in case the weather turns ugly.

7. Heating and Cooling

Staying warm during the winter can be challenging, especially if your car’s heater isn’t working properly. Apart from keeping you nice and toasty, your car’s heater helps defrost windows. If your heater isn’t in working condition, you’ll likely need to have the heating coils replaced. This is unfortunately an expensive repair, but definitely worth the benefits in the long run.

8. Emergency Kit

Sometimes even the best preparations are derailed by a bad winter storm. If you ever find yourself trapped on the roads during a storm, having an emergency kit on hand can save your life. A good emergency kit should include: a flashlight, emergency signals, a heavy blanket (preferably wool), gloves, winter cap, bag of sand or kitty litter (for traction), a de-icer or ice scraper, small shovel, food, and water. If you already have an emergency kit, ensure that each item is still in working order and replace food and water whenever necessary.

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4 Car Repairs That You Should Never Put Off

According to a 2015 study conducted by AAA, over 35 percent of Americans consistently skip or delay recommended vehicle maintenance and repairs. While there may be a host of excuses used to justify putting off auto body work, none really hold up in the face of ensuring the safety of yourself, your passengers, and others on the road.

While cosmetic repairs like removing bumper or body dents, refreshing paint jobs, and fixing scratches and dings can be safely put off for a few months, structural repairs that focus on parts which impact how your vehicle runs should never be postponed.

To help you prioritize which repairs are most urgent, here are 4 of the top car maintenance issues that you should tend to consistently to ensure you’re driving safely:

1. Batteries

The life expectancy of a car battery is anywhere between 3 to 5 years, with a shorter lifespan in hotter climates. Few things could be more frustrating than experiencing unexpected battery failure when you’re on the open road. To eliminate all guesswork—and potential for frustration—get your battery tested annually starting in year 3 of its lifespan.

2. Tires

A 2017 survey conducted by AAA found that over 60 percent of Americans put off checking their tire pressure on a regular basis. Ideally, drivers should be checking their tire pressure consistently, at least once every two months during warmer months and once a month during winter. Additionally, a vigilant eye should be kept on tire tread. When tire tread wears to about 4/32”, it’s probably time to invest in a new pair of tires. A mechanic should be able to help you read a tire pressure measurement if you haven’t done it before.

3. Oil change

Changing your oil and oil filter regularly helps to maintain a clean, lubricated, fully-functional engine. Oil mitigates friction among different components in the engine that would otherwise wear against each other. On average, you should be changing your oil every 7,500 miles or 4 months, whichever comes first. The cost of doing so adds up to $200 annually, a far more reasonable cost compared to the four-figure bill you might potentially incur if you neglect oil and filter changes long enough to have your engine fails due to negligence.

4. Brakes

Every time you’re out on the open road, you’re pushing two-plus tons of steel and metal around, and at enormous speeds to boot. That’s a 24/7 hazard that requires massive safety precautions, which is why the brakes are the single most important component in your vehicle. You should be checking them annually for signs of wear and tear before it’s too late. Not only could ignoring consistent brake work lead to costly repair bills down the road; worse, it could lead to a serious car accident. Play it safe by getting your brakes inspected at a repair shop regularly.

The costs of consistent preventative maintenance don’t have to come out-of-pocket. The combination of your regular insurance policy and a quality Vehicle Service Contract can ensure that the costs you pay to ensure safety on the road are minimal.

5 Things to Do After Buying a Used Car

You’ve just gotten a great deal on a used car. Excellent! But before you take your new pre-owned car out for a spin, there are a few things to do first.
1. Transfer the title

The first thing you need to do is secure a clean title to the vehicle. The title of the vehicle serves as the official record of ownership for a vehicle.

Title transfer is especially important if you bought your car from a private seller. You’ll want to make sure that there are no liens listed on the back of the title document. If there are, make sure the seller can provide official statements from the banks and other lien holders that all the prior loans on the vehicle have been paid off. Transfer title requirements and procedure vary from state to state; check with your state DMV for specific information on how to transfer title to the car.

If you bought a preowned vehicle from a dealership, they will most likely take care of the required paperwork for you. Keep in mind that if the dealer lets you finance your used vehicle, they will hold onto the title until the loan is paid off.

2. Get your vehicle insured

Once you have the title in hand, more paperwork is required to file before you can hit the road in your new wheels. Most states require you to secure insurance for the vehicle before you can register it and get license plates.

If you go through a dealer, chances are they will walk you through these steps—and in some cases even file the paperwork on your behalf. If you bought your vehicle from a private seller, your first call should be to an insurance company to set up a policy and get your proof of insurance sent to you.

3. Register your car at the DMV

While car dealers in some states can file registration documents and issue plates to you on the spot, new car purchasers generally have to go in person to the state DMV office to file the documents and pay the associated fees.

The documents and information you will need vary by state, but will usually include:

A bill of sale showing the purchase price
The title, which must be signed over to you by the previous owner.
The Vehicle Identification Number, or VIN (should be listed on the bill of sale and title)
The current odometer reading
Proof of insurance
Proof that you’ve paid sales tax on the vehicle purchase
Certificates showing that the car has passed safety and emissions inspections
Make sure you check up on your state’s requirements before heading to the DMV. Some states vary in their requirements and may need additional information.

4. Get your car inspected by a mechanic

Ideally, an independent mechanic should have inspected the vehicle prior to purchasing. However, even if you gave the car a pre-sale check-up, it makes sense to bring your car to a trusted mechanic for a thorough inspection and basic preventative maintenance after the purchase.

Buyers of even low-mileage used cars should immediately replace all filters and fluids. Additionally, since they are essential to your safety, you should definitely have a mechanic check your brakes and the wear on your tires.

For older used cars—or used cars purchased in sub-optimal conditions—you’ll want to invest in a proper tune-up. Depending on the age and condition of your vehicle, your mechanic may recommend replacing all the engine belts, spark plugs, and wires, conducting a wheel alignment, and refreshing the AC unit.

5. Get auto breakdown coverage for your car

Many used vehicles also come with questionable or unknown service histories, and no one can know for sure how a car was treated by its previous owner. Even the most reliable cars and the most well-cared-for used vehicles can have mechanical breakdowns.

If the used car you’ve just purchased doesn’t come with any existing protection, consider buying a Vehicle Service Contract (VSC) from an independent provider. In a nutshell, a VSC exists to protect you financially against covered breakdowns and repairs if and when they occur to your vehicle, subject to the deductible and plan limitations.

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