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Car Radiator Problems And The First Signs

A car’s radiator helps keep your car’s internal machinery at an acceptable temperature. When the radiator is not functioning optimally, your car can suffer damage that requires repair.

The Job of the Car Radiator

The radiator is critical to your car’s cooling system—its main goal is preventing overheating. It does this by constantly pumping cold air, cycled coolant, and water to the engine.

Telltale Signs of Car Radiator Problems

There are a few signs to watch out for that will let you know the radiator is in need of attention.

Overheating

When the radiator is not functioning properly, this means the engine is not being cooled. That leads to the engine overheating, which affects car cabin temperature. An overheating engine therefore makes for an uncomfortable drive. If you notice your car is too hot, get it checked out right away. Overheating is dangerous to engine components and can lead to expensive damage.

Leaking Coolant

A simple check under the car will show signs of leaking coolant. Leaks can come from a variety of places on the radiator. If you see a pool of green or yellow liquid, you have a leak that needs immediate repair.

Coolant Light

When the “low coolant light” pops up on the dashboard, coolant needs to be added. It can also mean there’s a hidden leak, especially if you recently topped up your fluids. Either way, to be safe, have a mechanic check it out.

Gunk Buildup

When a radiator is not functioning properly, it can affect the coolant in a negative way, turning it into a brown goo. Sludgy coolant can’t make its way to the engine as efficiently, resulting a buildup of the substance on the radiator. This is another dangerous situation that can impact both the engine and the transmission.

Collapsed Radiator Hose

In the event the radiator breaks, it can also cause the hose to collapse or break (hoses can also break independent of their radiator).

Steam Emission

If you see steam seeping out around the hood or under the car, this means radiator trouble. Turn off the car and have it towed to the nearest reliable mechanic. Continuing to drive under these conditions can lead to additional damage.

Safety

When any of the above situations occur, the first thing you may want to do is pop the hood and inspect the radiator. Unless you notice the pool of coolant under the car or the “low coolant” light flashes on as soon as you start the car, do not attempt to check the radiator. If the car has been running, the components could be hot to the touch. Always let the car cool completely before doing any inspection that will require touching any of the car’s components.

If you don’t already have a roadside assistance membership, it’s a good idea to invest in one in case your radiator gives out while you’re out and about. To the extent possible, you should never drive a car when its radiator is experiencing issues.

Checklist

Maintain a checklist of things to take a look at on your car between maintenance visits. From colored fluid on the ground, to gunky coolant buildup, spotting the signs of trouble early will help keep your car costs to a minimum.

How To Do An Oil Change At Home

Your Vehicle is a complex machine built for a simple purpose, moving from one point to another. It’s hard to believe that an engine with countless moving parts, different fluids, and a flammable fuel source goes to work to move you. Just like it’s difficult to keep a clear track of the various parts under your car’s hood, it can also be difficult to keep track of when and how to maintain those various parts. One of the simplest and, arguably, most important auto services you can have performed on your ride is the car oil change. Done anywhere from every 3,000 to 10,000 miles (depending on the oil you use), this important auto service ensures that the moving parts in your engine compartment are well lubricated and operating without a hitch.

This important auto service is also one that’s fairly user-friendly and can be done by anyone, with a little know-how. At Dynasty Boyz Auto Club, we’re here to show you how you can do your own car oil change like a pro!

Doing an Oil Change Like a Pro


The undercarriage and engine compartment of your vehicle can look pretty intimidating. So, here are a few steps to get you started:

Familiarize Yourself with Your Ride

For this, you need to look past the noise of your engine and look for what you need. To get a car oil change done, you need to look for very specific parts like the oil cap (located on the top of the engine block), the dipstick (a yellow or orange ring that sits closer to you in the engine compartment), the oil pan (under the vehicle), and the drain plug (on the pan body). Take your time finding these parts and refer to a reliable Clermont Toyota automotive authority if you have questions or need help.

Check Your Car’s Oil

Believe it or not, just because your vehicle’s oil light came on, you might not need to have a car oil change done just yet. You can find out by using your dipstick and a white towel (paper or fabric). First, locate the dipstick and pull it out of its housing (have the towel ready). Put the metal stick in the towel and wipe the oil off. Check the color. Is it light brown? Is there any debris in it? Depending on your findings and answer, determine if you actually need to change the oil in your car.

Sure You Have the Right Supplies

Every car has different needs regarding the type and amount of fluids they need to function. Before you dive into your car oil change, find out which oil your car needs and how much. It also helps to know which type of filter your car needs as you might wind up changing that in conjunction with your oil. You can find this information through reputable online sources and your Auto Zone.

Start Your Oil Change

These next parts can be tricky so make sure to perform them in the correct.

– First, lift up your car using 1 – 2 vehicle jacks (we recommend 2).
– Find the oil pan within your undercarriage. It’s a rectangular object located toward the front of your vehicle’s underbody.
– Place a drain pan underneath the Clermont oil pan and start loosening the drain plug.
Make sure to do this after your vehicle has been off for some time!
– Release the drain plug and do so quickly to avoid getting too much oil splash on your hands and arms.
– If you need to remove the oil filter, do so at this time.
– After all the oil has drained, replace the drain plug and filter.
– Then, locate the oil cap on top of the engine and unscrew it.
– Use a good funnel and pour the oil into the engine. Make sure you fill it with the correct amount of oil.
– Start your car and check your dipstick to make sure there’s oil in your engine and that’s it!

Easy peasy! After you’ve finished your car oil change, make sure to dispose of the old oil properly along with the filter.

If you need help with your DIY car oil change or you’d like one of our auto service experts to help you out, swing by Dynasty Boyz Auto Club today! You can find us at 10 Waverly Pl Staten Island NY 10304 five days a week!

How To Wax Your Car Like a Pro!

This article will cover everything you need to know about waxing your car to achieve an amazing shine and also the protection that goes with it!


If you need information about the best car wax to use — based on the needs of both you and your automobile — see our Car Wax Buyer’s Guide.


It used to be that you’d simply wash and dry your car, then pull out a can of Simonize (or other favorite cleaner/wax) to restore shine and wax protection

Things are different now! Today there are hundreds upon hundreds of car wax products, but the choices all boil down to:

  • Liquid Wax
  • Paste Wax
  • Spray Wax
  • Wipe-on, Walk Away Clear Sealant

The car wax you choose is really a lifestyle choice. As funny as that sounds, it’s true!

For car enthusiasts, the pursuit of car appearance perfection will lead them to a multi-step, all-day, car pampering process. This may seem extreme for some but it’s pure enjoyment for car lovers.

At the other end of the spectrum are folks interested in vehicle care, but their time is precious. These people need a fast and easy solution.

Here’s the good news:

Many car wax products have evolved to the point where nearly everyone will be satisfied with the results. And it’s the same process for both fanatics and those interested in a quick wax job!

Start With a Squeaky Clean Finish

The reason Simonize and Turtle Wax paste waxes were so popular a few decades ago is because they were a single-step paint cleaner and car wax in one (e.g., “cleaner/wax”).

Today we have more choices but, no matter what, your car’s paint must be clean before waxing.


Warning: Never wax over the dirt! Use a quality clay bar to safely remove bonded contamination.


Clay bar detailing is a quick and easy process of removing bonded dirt and other contamination with a simple bar of detailing clay.

Use it after washing your car to remove all the loose dirt. The result is a squeaky clean paint finish that’s as smooth as glass.

For complete instructions, see our complete Clay Bar Detailing guide.

Cleaner/Wax vs. Clay Bar + Non-Cleaner Wax

Modern clearcoat paint finishes (most cars made since the year 2000 have a clearcoat finish) are much different than traditional paint systems without a clearcoat.

The truth is they are thinner.

Why is that?

To conserve weight (and our environment) and reduce cost. As a result, the use of abrasive cleaners and polishes for regular care is not advisable.

The safe alternative to a cleaner wax is detailing clay followed by a high quality non-cleaner wax (pure wax).

FYI: You can find out whether you have a cleaner/wax or a pure wax by simply reading the label. If the product claims to “clean” or “polish” then it is a cleaner/wax.

Polish to Remove Defects… Before You Wax!

The time to use an abrasive on your vehicle’s paint is when you have fine defects that need to be removed. Many people mistakenly believe that waxing will fix minor blemishes.

It won’t!

Waxing may temporarily cover-up some blemishes, but it will not make them go away.

By blemishes I’m talking about fine scratches, swirl marks, water spot etching and stains or burns from bird dropping. To solve these problems you must use an abrasive car polish.

Make no mistake: If your car’s paint needs reconditioning, you must have it done before applying wax.

Applying Automotive Spray Wax

Automotive spray waxes are the easiest paint protection products to apply.

A few years ago spray wax products were a joke, but today they rival some of the best liquid and past wax products.

What changed? In a word, polymers!

Polymer coating technology is getting so good that a product like Meguiar’s Ultimate Quik Wax offers the same level of protection as the original formula Meguiar’s NXT Generation Tech Wax that hit the market a few years ago.

Best of all, you can apply best-of-breed spray wax products in a matter of minutes. Many of them can be used in direct sunlight, although the most amazing results are always achieved in the shade.

To apply a spray wax thoroughly wash and dry your car.

With a microfiber buffing towel in one hand and your spray wax in the other, spray and wipe a small area at a time. Distribute evenly, then flip the towel to a dry side for a final buff.

It’s that easy!

NOTE: For perfect results, always give a final wipe with a clean, dry microfiber buffing towel that hasn’t been used to distribute product.

Applying Liquid And Paste Waxes

Many years ago paste waxes were preferred because they offered great results. Nowadays, manufactures offer liquid and paste versions of the same car wax formula.

So, what’s the difference?

It comes down to your personal preference and method of application. Wax is easier to apply by hand, whereas a liquid wax is necessary for machine application.

For both liquid and paste waxes, a basic rule applies: less is better. With modern polymer waxes, it’s not necessary to slather on a heavy coating.

Take it from me, a thin coat dries faster and wipes off easier.

For all liquid and paste wax products, follow these basic instructions:

  • Work in a shaded area — out of direct sunlight.
  • Use the applicator that is provided by the manufacture or one that they recommend. If the manufacturer does not make a recommendation, use a foam applicator pad to apply your wax.
  • Work on one area at a time covering 2 to 4 square feet. Some products may allow you to coat the entire car before buffing off. However, most do not.
  • Follow the wax manufacturer’s instructions on whether or not to allow the wax to dry (haze) before buffing.
  • Use a small amount of wax at a time, and rub it in well. Use too much wax and you’re wasting the product and your time.
  • Switch to a clean wipe towel if the wax residue does not buff off easily.
  • Apply your wax in a back-and-forth motion, not in circles. You need to replace your applicator or towels if you are creating swirls.

After waxing, your car’s paint should feel slick and smooth, and be free of streaks and smudges.

What do you do if, after all this work, you still have streaks and areas that do not want to buff out perfectly?

There are several tricks, but the easiest is to park your car in the sun for 10 to 15 minutes. Let it get warm, but not hot, and then take it back inside the garage.

Next, use your favorite detail spray a fresh buffing towel to wipe down the affected areas. The warmth of the sun softens the wax, allowing it to buff out to a clear, high gloss.

If you are using an enthusiast sealant system, use the quick detailer made for the system.

Show Car Wax Tricks

Detailers who prepare show cars often tend to layer a carnauba wax on top of a synthetic wax. The synthetic wax acts as a gloss layer, while the carnauba wax adds depth and a wet-looking appearance.

A combination that works well is an initial coating of Klasse All-In-One Car Polishfollowed by one or more coats of Carnauba Wax by P21S. And with superior coating capabilities, multiple coats of the Optimum Opti-Seal product creates a dazzling finish.

When layering products for show, apply and buff the first coat of wax as you would normally. Be sure to allow it to cure for 12 to 24 hours before applying a second coat.

Please Note: The first coat must have time to cure. If the wax does not cure (harden), the second coat will not improve your car’s appearance or protection.

You will absolutely see noticeable improvement in depth, richness of color and gloss with properly applied coats of wax.

Applying a Clear Paint Sealant

The new breed of clear sealants have a completely new method of application. You literally wipe the clear sealant on, then walk away and allow it to dry.

I highly recommend Wolfgang Deep Gloss as well as soft foam applicator pads for applying an even coating.

When the paint sealant finishes drying it will be as gloss as it is going to be without buffing or wiping, and the surface has the best protection possible.

But wait!

Your car must be clean and dry before applying a sealant. Clear seal products are very hydrophobic, so they usually do not mix with water at all.

Clear sealants can be applied to paint, glass, chrome and plastic trim. The most important thing is to apply an even coating and then leave it alone.

Be patient.

Do not wipe after application. Simply allow the sealant to dry (20-30 minutes).

Do this right and it can last up to a year, though I usually apply paint sealant twice yearly for solid protection.

Car Wax Summary

Regular waxing is necessary to protect car paint from the elements.

In addition to sealing and protecting, both waxes and sealants also improve the appearance of freshly washed and polished paint.

Follow the advice here and it’s not difficult!

Use the right products and you can successfully layer waxes and sealants to make your car’s paint look deeper and almost liquid.

Once your car is waxed, it’s time to move on to Car Interior Cleaning!

How to paint a car with spray paint

Spray painting is an inexpensive way to paint a car. Clean and sand the surface of the car to create a smooth base on which to apply the primer. Apply multiple primer coats and top coats in order to achieve a quality finish. Even though spray paint is a convenient and effective option for painting a car, it is important to use it safely. Always spray paint in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask and goggles.

Part 1 of 3:Preparing the Surface of the Car

1-Sand the car using 600-grit sandpaper. Rub down the metal surfaces of the area you are painting using 600-grit sandpaper. Rub the sandpaper back and forth over the entire area. You will slowly start to see the paint flaking away from the car. Once the majority of the paint has been removed, switch to 1500-grit sandpaper.[1]

  • Make sure that any rust on the car is thoroughly sanded off.
  • This is a long process but will make your paint job look much better.

2-Repair any holes in the metal with putty. Removing rust can sometimes leave holes in the metal. Fill up the holes with a putty that is designed for cars or metal. Squeeze the putty directly out of the tube into the hole until it completely covered. Smooth the surface and remove any excess putty using a flat-edged putty knife.[2]

  • Allow the putty to dry for 1 hour before rubbing it over with 1200-grit sand paper.
  • Car putty can be purchased online or from a hardware store.

3-Clean the surface of the car using a dry cloth. Remove any dust or dirt from the area using an old dry cloth. If there is any wax or stubborn dirt, try wiping it off using cellulose thinner. This will help to dissolve the wax and baked on dirt. Wipe the cellulose thinner over the area using an old cloth. You will only need a small amount as it is extremely potent.[3]

  • Cellulose thinner can be purchased from a hardware store.
  • Always use cellulose thinner in a well-ventilated area as the fumes can be toxic.

4-Cover any areas not being painted using painters tape and paper. Rip off pieces of painters tape and use them to cover any exposed surfaces that you don’t want paint on. If you are trying to cover a large surface, such as a window, tape pieces of paper over the surface to protect it from the spray paint.

  • Don’t forget to cover any areas that aren’t metal, such as car bumpers, wheel rims, side mirrors, and window frames.[4]
  • Painters tape can be purchased from a hardware store.
  • Lay paper under your car if you don’t want paint on the ground surface.

Part 2 of 3:Priming the Car

1-Choose a sheltered and well-ventilated location to use the spray cans. Aerosols work best in warm, dry and sheltered conditions. Work inside a well-ventilated garage if it is cold and damp outside. Avoid humidity if possible as this makes it harder for the paint to dry.[5]

  • Make sure that your car away from anything that you don’t want paint on.
  • Wear safety goggles and a dust mask to protect yourself from the paint fumes and dust.

2-Apply 3 coats of primer, waiting 15 minutes between each coat. Apply the primer to the car from 25 centimetres (9.8 in) away. Spray primer over the entire surface that you will be painting. Gently push down the spray button and move the can across the area using even, back and forth strokes. Move at a consistent pace to achieve an even coat. Wait 15 minutes before applying the next coat of primer. You will need at least 3 coats in order to get an even covering.[6]

  • It is best to apply multiple light layers of primer instead of a few thick coats as applying thick coats can cause the paint to drip.
  • Allow the area to dry for at least 24 hours after the last primer coat.

3-Sand the area with 1200-grit wet and dry paper until it is smooth. Wet the sandpaper and rub it back and forth over the area until the primer coat is smooth and even. If you are sanding a large area you may need multiple pieces of sandpaper to achieve a smooth finish.[7]

4-Clean the area with warm, soapy water. Remove the dust from the car using warm, soapy water on a cloth. Rinse the car to remove the soap suds and then dry the area with a towel (or wait for it to air dry).[8]

Part 3 of 3:Spraying the Car

1-Shake the paint can for at least 3 minutes. The pigments in the paint separate over time so you will need to shake the can vigorously to re-combine them. If you have already shaken and used the can within the last 12 hours you will only need to shake the can for 1 minute.[9]

2-Test the paint on a spare piece of cardboard. Hold the can about 25 centimetres (9.8 in) away from the card and spray the paint. Check the card to make sure that the paint has sprayed evenly. If it is patchy, shake the can for a few more minutes.[10]

  • A test spray will give you the chance to experiment with how much pressure you need to put on the spray button.

3-Spray the paint onto the car, using horizontal strokes. Hold the can so that is parallel to the car’s surface and about 25 centimetres (9.8 in) away from the car. Push down the spray button and spray the paint over the car using even, back and forth strokes. Take care to keep the can parallel to the car as you move your arm across the area. Continue spraying until the area has a light even coat.[11]

  • Try to move the can at a consistent speed.
  • Move your arm across the area at a consistent speed to achieve an even coat.

4-Apply at least 2 coats of paint, with a 10-minute break between coats.Applying multiple coats of paints will give an even surface to the car. Wait 10 minutes before applying the next coat. The paint should still be slightly sticky, this helps the next coat to stick and blend into the previous coat.[12]

  • If the surface still looks patchy after 2 coats, apply another coat after 10 minutes.[13]
  • Wait 30 minutes for the paint to dry before applying the clear paint.

5-Spray a coat of clear paint over the area using a horizontal motion. Push the spray button and move the can along the area in a smooth motion over the surface you have already painted. This will help to protect the paint from the UV rays in the sun. Leave this coat to dry for 24 hours before using the car.[14]

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